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Where frost sets the season

Where frost sets the season, a warm crop waits for warm ground and still needs enough warm months to reach harvest.

As recorded: Where frost sets the season, a frost-tender crop goes in once the ground is warm, not only once frost has passed: not before its place's monthly mean temperature reaches 15.6 °C (60 °F), the soil warmth its sources give for planting warm-season crops. Where frost sets the season, a crop reaches harvest outdoors only where enough months in a row average at least its lowest monthly temperature to cover its days to maturity. Where fewer do, or none, it is a crop to grow with care: under cover, from an early start indoors, or as its quickest variety.

A good hunch A person has yet to check it against a source. If you skip this, you lose real yield. The planner suggests it.

How it works

Warm-season seed is slow to sprout and can rot in soil cooler than about 60 °F (15.6 °C), and a transplant stands still in it, so where spring warms slowly a crop planted at the last frost sits in cold ground for weeks. A crop grows at the pace its days to maturity assume only in months at least as warm as the low end of its band, and in cooler months it grows too slowly to finish, so a frost-free season of cool months can end before the crop is ready.

What to do about it

Wait for the warm day, or warm the soil first under a cloche or black plastic; grow it under cover, in a greenhouse, tunnel or cloche; start it early indoors and choose its quickest variety; or grow a crop whose months these are.

The evidence

Evidence: not yet confirmed. Of its 19 sources, a person has read 9, and the rest wait for a read.

What this rests on - 19 pointers

oc4h.ucanr.edu

Vegetable Characteristics UC Cooperative Extension Placer/Nevada Counties, publication 31-043C
… 65-75º 60º 90º Cucumber, cantaloupe

www.ucanr.edu

Hold the Tomatoes! UC Master Gardeners of Monterey, San Benito and Santa Cruz Counties, Jazmin Lopez
Average monthly temperatures for warm season crops during their growing period: 65-80F. This includes melons, corn, eggplant, peppers, squash, and tomatoes.

extension.colostate.edu

Vegetable Gardening in the Mountains Colorado State University Extension
Of the warm season vegetables, bush beans and summer squash are the most likely to succeed.

extension.umn.edu

Growing eggplant in home gardens University of Minnesota Extension
Eggplant needs warm conditions, and will not thrive during a cool season. There are varieties available that thrive in Minnesota’s short summer season.

extension.umn.edu

Growing peppers University of Minnesota Extension
In general, smaller-fruited peppers are more tolerant of both cool and hot temperatures

extension.oregonstate.edu

Growing vegetables in the Pacific Northwest coastal region Oregon State University Extension, EM 9695
Cold rain, wind, and cool nights can keep coastal soils cold well into summer.

extension.oregonstate.edu

Coastal gardening: How to succeed in wind and microclimates Oregon State University Extension
There are some things you can’t do very well on the coast, like tomatoes,

solutions.tennessee.edu

Fall Vegetable Gardens University of Tennessee Agricultural Extension Service, SP291G
Most seed packets and variety descriptions in catalogs estimate the days from planting to maturity. Add about 10 days to this estimate because of the cooler, shorter days in the fall.

extension.oregonstate.edu Not yet read by a person

Soil temperature conditions for vegetable seed germination J. F. Harrington, OSU Extension
Soil temperature conditions for vegetable seed germination (in degrees F)

extension.colostate.edu Not yet read by a person

Vegetable Planting Guide CSU Extension, GardenNotes #720
They need daytime temperatures above 60°F, and prefer temperatures of 70°F to 95°F. A week of daytime temperatures below 55°F may stunt the crop.

extension.umn.edu Not yet read by a person

Growing sweet corn in home gardens University of Minnesota Extension
Seeds germinate best when soil temperatures are close to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Use a soil thermometer to be sure the soil is warm enough.

extension.umn.edu Not yet read by a person

Growing beans in home gardens University of Minnesota Extension
Plant beans once the soil has warmed. In much of Minnesota, this is not until late May or even early June.

extension.umn.edu Not yet read by a person

Growing summer squash and zucchini in home gardens University of Minnesota Extension
Sow seed directly in the garden after the soil has warmed, in late May to early June.

extension.umn.edu Not yet read by a person

Growing tomatoes in home gardens University of Minnesota Extension
Transplant outdoors after all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed.

www.rhs.org.uk Not yet read by a person

How to grow Sweetcorn Royal Horticultural Society
Seeds need a soil temperature above 10°C (50°F) to germinate, so wait until late spring or early summer.

www.rhs.org.uk Not yet read by a person

How to grow French beans Royal Horticultural Society
French beans can be sown outdoors once all risk of frost has passed and the soil is warming up – usually in late May or early June, depending on your local climate.

www.rhs.org.uk Not yet read by a person

How to grow courgettes Royal Horticultural Society
You can sow seeds outdoors in late May or early June, once the soil warms up.

www.abc.net Not yet read by a person

Top Tomato Tips ABC Gardening Australia
Ideally, tomatoes should not be planted out into the garden until the soil temperature reaches a minimum of 16 degrees, and 18-20 degrees is even better. Make sure you plant after the latest chance of frost, eg. In cold areas this is usually the first week of November.

www.abc.net Not yet read by a person

Tomato Trade ABC Gardening Australia
Once the danger of frosts has passed and the ground is warming. Generally October/November.

Plus one working note on how the sources were read. Every note is in the data download.

Where this rule stops

It reads each month's normal mean, the average of its normal daily high and low, so a warm summer, a sheltered wall or a cold snap is not seen. Its crop limits come from one table that does not say what its numbers measure; they are read as monthly averages, so its verdict is an estimate. Away from a weather station the model's monthly highs run cooler than the towns' own, so it can read a place's summer cooler than it is. Days to maturity are counted at their usual pace, and cool months slow a crop down. Its planting line is a soil temperature read against the air's normal monthly mean, because no place here carries a soil temperature and no source read says how one follows the other; its day is an estimate. Sunny soil warms ahead of the air, so in a sunny spring the day can come later than a soil thermometer would say.

Plants it applies to · 36

Fruiting vegetables · 12, Salad & greens · 10, Roots & tubers · 6, Beans & peas · 4, Onions & garlic · 2, Herbs · 2

Onions & garlic · 2

Herbs · 2

How this rule has changed

Every change is dated, newest first. The full record, with each reason, is in the data download.

Cite this page

Milpa Gardens. “Where frost sets the season, a warm crop waits for warm ground and still needs enough warm months to reach harvest.” Evidence grade: A good hunch. https://milpa.garden/rules/where-frost-sets-season-frost-tender-crop/

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How we grade evidence

Well established
The rule names its mechanism and is settled, by sources a person has read and checked or by plain arithmetic and geometry.
Promising
The mechanism is named and the literature backs it. A few questions are still open.
A good hunch
Plausible by its mechanism, but field studies are thin, so treat it as a lean.
Contested
The evidence points both ways, or no study has tested it, so the planner does not enforce it.
Refuted
The claim did not survive its sources. It is kept so the folklore can be answered.

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All rules · Folklore, checked