Not every cucumber grows the same. These are its main types (its cultivar groups), and the planner sizes, times and supports each one by its own numbers.
Vining cucumber — vine, spacing in row 45 cm18 in, mature height 30 cm12 in, mature spread 1.2–2 m4–7 ft, days to maturity 50–70
Bush cucumber — bush, spacing in row 45 cm18 in, mature height 40–60 cm16–24 in, mature spread 60–90 cm24–35 in, days to maturity 50–65
Numbers we’re less sure of
Many of our estimates come from an extension page we’ve read that gets close without pinning the number down. Others are still our own best guess, and on some the sources disagree. Treat them all as a starting point.
Bloom window — an estimate
Vining cucumber: mature spread — an estimate
Bush cucumber: mature spread — an estimate
Soil pH (in water) — an estimate
Vining cucumber: mature height — an estimate
Bush cucumber: mature height — an estimate
Monthly temperatures it grows in — an estimate
Vining cucumber: spacing in row — sources disagree
Bush cucumber: spacing in row — sources disagree
Harvest from 10 feet of row — sources disagree
Rules that apply to cucumber
Do not plant cucurbits in ground that held cucurbits within 2-3 years. Promising
Do not plant cucurbits in ground that held cucurbits within 2-3 years.
If you skip this, you lose real yield. The planner warns you.
How it works: Melittia cucurbitae overwinters as a pupa in the soil where its host grew and emerges the next summer; Anasa tristis overwinters as an adult in sheltered sites (plant debris, under boards or rocks) and flies to cucurbits in spring. A host-free break cuts local carryover, but both are strong fliers that re-invade from a distance, so rotation is only partial and works best paired with fall sanitation (destroy spent vines).
Evidence: checked against 4 sources in the research-based literature.
… squash vine borers spend the winter in the soil near their host plants ... Practice rotation ... planting cucurbits in different areas of your garden if possible, or alternate seasons
Crop rotation away from previously infested fields helps reduce local populations, as overwintering pupae remain in the soil. However ... fields often need to be rotated more than 5 miles away as SVB can fly into fields from long distances.
Squash bugs can live through the winter as adults in sheltered places, such as under plant debris, around buildings, or under rocks. When adults come out in the spring, they fly to growing cucurbit plants.
Plant cucurbits in different ground, or wait 3 years. Destroy the spent vines in autumn and clear debris and boards nearby. The pupae overwinter in the soil where the crop grew, the adults in the shelter around it. Rotation is only partial; both pests fly in from a distance.
If you skip this, the planting fails. The planner won’t allow it.
How it works: The season's accumulated growing degree days (a running total of its warmth) against the total the crop needs to mature, or the crop's days to maturity against the number of frost-free days.
Evidence: checked against 3 sources in the research-based literature.
Once you know the average dates of the last frost in spring and the first frost in fall, count the number of days between. If the “days to maturity” figure for a desired vegetable is a larger number of days and the “frost tolerance” column indicates “none,” the sad truth is that particular vegetable probably won’t grow to maturity.
… high elevation areas don’t accumulate enough “growing degree units” (GDUs, also called growing degree days and heat units) to support some of the most coveted warm season vegetables
Remedy
Start it indoors and transplant it, choose a variety with fewer days to maturity, or skip this crop at this site.
If you skip this, it still grows, just less well. The planner suggests it.
How it works: Resource concentration. A specialist locates and holds its host more efficiently at higher host density and continuity, so an unbroken run of one family across adjacent beds is an easier target than the same family separated by a non-host (associational resistance).
Evidence: checked against 2 sources in the research-based literature.
The 2 sources
Organization of a plant-arthropod association in simple and diverse habitats: the fauna of collards (Brassica oleracea) Root 1973
… the resource concentration hypothesis, which states that herbivores are more likely to find and remain on hosts that are growing in dense or nearly pure stands; that the most specialized species frequently attain higher relative densities in simple environments.
Flea beetle movement in a broccoli monoculture and diculture Elmstrom, Andow & Barclay 1988
… strong, direct support for the hypothesis that host plants are harder to find and easier to lose in vegetationally diverse habitats than in monocultures.
Remedy
Where one family fills adjacent beds in a single season, breaking the run with a non-host family between them lengthens the distance the specialist must travel to the next host. The app discloses this and never docks a score. A continuous single-family block can be the right call anyway (a wind-pollinated crop like corn sets better massed), so the app names the trade-off and leaves the choice to the gardener.
Cold-hardy annuals can be sown or transplanted before the last spring frost (hardy crops about three weeks before, half-hardy about two weeks before). Tender crops wait for the frost itself. Promising
Cold-hardy annuals can be sown or transplanted before the last spring frost (hardy crops about three weeks before, half-hardy about two weeks before). Tender crops wait for the frost itself.
If you skip this, it still grows, just less well. The planner suggests it.
How it works: Cold hardiness. Hardy crops tolerate hard frost and half-hardy crops tolerate light frost, so they can occupy the ground weeks before frost-tender crops are allowed in. The offset is measured from the last spring frost.
Evidence: checked against 2 sources in the research-based literature.
White powdery spots on squash, cucumber, melon or pumpkin leaves are powdery mildew, a fungus that spreads on the wind and strikes the older leaves first. It weakens the plant and the fruit ripens early. Promising
White powdery spots on squash, cucumber, melon or pumpkin leaves are powdery mildew, a fungus that spreads on the wind and strikes the older leaves first. It weakens the plant and the fruit ripens early.
If you skip this, it still grows, just less well. The planner suggests it.
How it works: The fungus (mainly Podosphaera xanthii) grows on the leaf surface; the spores formed in each spot are carried by the wind to other leaves, and under favorable conditions it spreads until it covers most of the foliage. A plant that loses most of its leaf area to it is weakened, and its fruit ripens prematurely. It takes hold most readily on densely planted vines, plants crowded by weeds, plants in shade and over-fertilized plants.
Evidence: checked against 1 source in the research-based literature.
White powdery spots can form on both upper and lower leaf surfaces, and quickly expand into large blotches.
Remedy
Grow varieties with complete or partial resistance, and give the vines air. Space them properly at planting, stake where you can, and keep weeds down. Where powdery mildew has cost a crop before and the variety is susceptible, a fungicide may be needed. Start at the first spots.
If you skip this, the planting fails. The planner warns you.
How it works: On a clear, still night leaves lose heat to the open sky, so a leaf can fall to freezing and ice can form in it while the thermometer, a couple of meters up, still reads a few degrees above.
Evidence: checked against 7 sources in the research-based literature.
Frost occurs when air is warmer than 32°F but plant tissues drop to 32°F or below because plants radiate (lose) heat into the atmosphere, especially during cool, clear nights.
Radiation frosts occur on calm clear nights that lack cloud cover to hold in heat.
Remedy
The evening before, cover the crops at risk with a sheet or frost cloth, never plastic, reaching the ground and loose at the bottom so the soil's warmth can rise under it, and take it off in the morning. A cover helps least in a long, hard freeze.
If you skip this, you lose real yield. The planner suggests it.
How it works: A crop grows and makes its harvest within a band of warmth: in months colder than its band it grows too slowly to finish, and in months hotter than it a cool-season crop bolts and turns bitter while a warm-season crop drops its flowers.
Evidence: checked against 9 sources in the research-based literature.
Hold the Tomatoes!UC Master Gardeners of Monterey, San Benito and Santa Cruz Counties, Jazmin Lopez
Average monthly temperatures for cool-season crops during their growing period: 60-65F. This includes, carrots, parsnips, spinach, lettuce, broccoli, and garlic to name a few.
Group D: These vegetables thrive in areas where the mean monthly temperatures range between 15 and 18°C. They are intolerant to temperatures between 21 and 24°C, and tolerate weak frosts. This group includes spinach, lettuce, broccoli, beetroot, Brussels sprout, cabbage, radish, rhubarb and watercress.
In the Top End climate lettuce plantings are restricted to the cooler months from April till July. Hot weather makes the plants to bolt, as they do not form a head but flower instead.
If you skip this, you lose real yield. The planner suggests it.
How it works: A crop grows at the pace its days to maturity assume only in months at least as warm as the low end of its band, and in cooler months it grows too slowly to finish, so a frost-free season of cool months can end before the crop is ready.
Evidence: not yet confirmed. It is cited to 8 sources, which a person has yet to read.
Hold the Tomatoes!UC Master Gardeners of Monterey, San Benito and Santa Cruz Counties, Jazmin Lopez
Average monthly temperatures for warm season crops during their growing period: 65-80F. This includes melons, corn, eggplant, peppers, squash, and tomatoes.
Eggplant needs warm conditions, and will not thrive during a cool season. There are varieties available that thrive in Minnesota’s short summer season.
Most seed packets and variety descriptions in catalogs estimate the days from planting to maturity. Add about 10 days to this estimate because of the cooler, shorter days in the fall.
Plus one working note on how the sources were read.
Remedy
Grow it under cover, in a greenhouse, tunnel or cloche; start it early indoors and choose its quickest variety; or grow a crop whose months these are.
A garden planner built on graded evidence. Every claim states its evidence grade and links its sources on the page. Cite it with the grade, and add the date you read it.
