Lettuce, tomato, cucumber, radish, green onion, arugula, endive, radicchio and mizuna, grown together for the salad bowl.
Why these are grouped
Chosen for the kitchen. None of these plants is known to help another. They're harvested together for the salad bowl. What it teaches is timing. The quick radish and cool-season lettuce come and go (both can bolt, so the plan suggests sowing them in succession) while the warm-season tomato and cucumber are still ripening. This bed is really two or three successions.
At least 3 m²32 ft². If your bed is smaller, the planner grays this plant team out, says why, and offers the nearest adaptation that fits. It never swaps in something else without telling you.
Between seasons
Nothing is left living in the bed over winter; the whole planting is re-established.
The planner won’t plan around this claim. What is known instead is below.
What is known: Some plant teams rest on a real way one plant acts on another. A kitchen bundle says only that you'll want these things in the same bowl. Both are good ways to plant. Only the first has plants working on each other.
If you skip this, you lose real yield. The planner warns you.
How it works: Soilborne inoculum and overwintering pest stages disperse across the bed. A plant team dominated by one family forecloses that ground for that family's rotation interval.
Evidence: checked against 2 sources in the research-based literature.
Remedy
Rotate the whole bed the plant team occupied, including rows that family never grew in.
If you skip this, it still grows, just less well. The planner suggests it.
How it works: Sowing the same crop in batches about two weeks apart staggers when each batch matures, so the harvest arrives as a continual succession, with no single glut. It pays off only for short-DTM crops, whose quick turnaround lets several sowings ripen within a single season.
Evidence: checked against 1 source in the research-based literature.