Tomato
Solanum lycopersicum · nightshades
Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) is an annual in the nightshades.
What the corpus records
- Soil pH
- 6–6.8
- Start indoors, weeks before transplant
- 6
- Light
- full sun
- Frost tolerance
- tender
- Feeder class
- heavy
- Root depth
- deep
- Lifespan
- annual
- Ground coverage
- low
- Value to pollinators
- low
- Scheduled by
- days to maturity
- Casts shade on neighbours
- yes
- Needs support
- strong
Cultivar groups
The same species behaves differently by cultivar group, so the planner resolves size, timing and support against the group rather than the species.
- Determinate — bush, mature height 90–120 cm, mature spread 60 cm, spacing in row 60 cm, days to maturity 60–80
- Indeterminate — vine, mature height 180–300 cm, mature spread 60 cm, spacing in row 60 cm, days to maturity 70–90
Which of these numbers are soft
Every number above carries a confidence tier. These are the ones the corpus does not stand behind — estimated from general knowledge, or contested between sources. They are shown because hiding them would be the dishonest half of showing the rest.
- ph range — estimated
- night temperature it stops setting fruit — contested
Rules that apply to Tomato
Do not plant nightshades in ground that held nightshades within 3 years.
Promising · costly if ignored → warn
Mechanism: Alternaria solani (early blight) and Septoria lycopersici overwinter on tomato debris and solanaceous weeds; a 2-3 year break plus debris removal starves this inoculum. Fusarium has a very narrow host range, so rotating away from the host is effective. Verticillium is the exception: microsclerotia persist ~10 years and it infects 300+ host families, so a garden-scale rotation does not control it.
Evidence: confirmed against 5 sources in the research-based literature.
the 5 sources
Clemson HGIC, 'Tomato Diseases & Disorders', hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/tomato-diseases-disorders (read 2026-07-11): 'tomatoes and related vegetables, such as potatoes, peppers, and eggplants, should not be planted on the same land more than once in three years.'
NC State Extension, 'Early Blight of Tomato', content.ces.ncsu.edu/early-blight-of-tomato (read 2026-07-11): 'Rotate every 2-3 years.'
NC State Extension, 'Septoria Leaf Spot of Tomato', content.ces.ncsu.edu/septoria-leaf-spot-of-tomato (read 2026-07-11): 'The fungus is known to overwinter on infected tomato debris and solanaceous weed hosts'; 'Rotate away from tomato for 2 or more years.'
NC State Extension, 'Verticillium Wilt of Tomato and Eggplant', content.ces.ncsu.edu/verticillium-wilt-of-tomato-and-eggplant (read 2026-07-11): 'The pathogen can survive in the soil without a host for up to 10 years in the form of structures called microsclerotia'; 'affects more than 300 host families.'
UMass Extension, 'Solanaceous, Verticillium Wilt', umass.edu/agriculture-food-environment/vegetable/fact-sheets/solanaceous-verticillium-wilt (read 2026-07-11): 'Verticillium wilt tends to affect a wide range of hosts and can infect many unrelated plants. Fusarium spp., on the other hand, have very narrow host ranges.'
remedy
Plant nightshades in different ground, or wait until 3 years have passed since this ground last held them. Clear and remove the old debris either way — the inoculum overwinters on it.
See this rule in the planner
Do not plant a juglone-sensitive species within the root zone of Juglans. The sensitive list is the hazard's own, and it is wider than the nightshades - it also carries apple and cabbage.
Well established · fatal if ignored → block
Mechanism: Juglans roots exude hydrojuglone, oxidized to juglone, a respiration inhibitor. nightshades are highly sensitive: wilt and death.
Evidence: confirmed against 2 sources in the research-based literature.
the 2 sources
UW-Madison / Wisconsin Horticulture (Joy, Hudelson & Jull, rev. 2024-02-28), 'Black Walnut Toxicity', hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/black-walnut-toxicity (read 2026-07-13): 'Vegetables such as tomato, potato, eggplant and pepper ... are particularly sensitive to juglone'; 'The toxic effects of a mature black walnut tree can extend 50 to 80 feet from the trunk of the tree, with the greatest toxicity occurring within the tree's dripline.'
Iowa State Univ. Extension & Outreach, Yard and Garden FAQ, 'What plants are sensitive to the juglone produced by black walnuts?', yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu (read 2026-07-13): juglone-sensitive plants include 'members of the tomato family (tomato, potato, eggplant, pepper).'
remedy
Plant it outside the walnut's root zone — the whole drip line and beyond. There is no soil treatment for juglone.
See this rule in the planner
Tender species must not be scheduled before the site's last frost date.
Well established · fatal if ignored → block
Mechanism: Ice nucleation in leaf tissue.
Evidence: settled without a trial - climatology.
remedy
Sow or set out after the last frost date, or start indoors and transplant once it has passed.
See this rule in the planner
Cold-hardy annuals can be sown or transplanted before the last spring frost — hardy crops about three weeks before, half-hardy about two weeks before. Tender crops wait for the frost itself.
Promising · suboptimal if ignored → advise
Mechanism: Cold hardiness. Hardy crops tolerate hard frost and half-hardy crops tolerate light frost, so they can occupy the ground weeks before frost-tender crops are allowed in. The offset is measured from the last spring frost.
Evidence: confirmed against 4 sources in the research-based literature.
the 4 sources
University of Illinois Extension, 'Time Your Vegetable Plantings by Cold Hardiness' (2018-03-26), extension.illinois.edu/blogs/ilriverhort/2018-03-26-time-your-vegetable-plantings-cold-hardiness: very hardy vegetables 'withstand freezing temperatures and hard frosts without injury' (planted earliest in spring); frost-tolerant vegetables 'can withstand light frosts, but not freezing temperatures' (planted a couple of weeks later). LLM-summarised from a read of the page; it establishes the CATEGORIES but states no week offsets.
Colorado State Univ. Extension, GardenNotes #720, 'Vegetable Planting Guide', extension.colostate.edu/resource/vegetable-planting-guide (read 2026-07-25): hardy vegetables go in 'As early as 2-4 weeks before the date of the average last spring frost'; semi-hardy 'As early as 0-2 weeks before the date of the average last spring frost'; tender from seed 'around the date of the average last spring frost'; very tender 'Typically 2+ weeks after'. This is the source that states the offsets in weeks.
Where this rule sits in that range: hardy at 3 weeks is mid-range of CSU's 2-4. Half-hardy at 2 weeks is the EARLIEST EDGE of CSU's 0-2 - the most aggressive planting CSU sanctions, not the middle of it. The rule is inside published guidance at both ends, but it leans early on the half-hardy side and a gardener following it in a cold spring is taking that boundary.
Do not import an offset from another publication's hardiness scheme without checking the category names: CSU has no 'very hardy' tier, so a '4-6 weeks before frost' figure written against a four-tier scheme does not describe CSU's 'hardy'. Categories are not comparable across sources.
See this rule in the planner
Long-season warm crops are started indoors several weeks before the last frost and set out after it — tomato and tomatillo about six weeks ahead, pepper and eggplant about eight. Basil, six.
Promising · suboptimal if ignored → advise
Mechanism: A frost-tender crop with a long days-to-maturity cannot mature if it is only direct-sown after the last frost — the frost-free window is too short. A head start under cover buys the weeks the season lacks; the seedling is set out only once frost has passed — the transplant date is still frost-gated.
Evidence: confirmed against 2 sources in the research-based literature.
the 2 sources
University of Minnesota Extension, 'Starting seeds indoors', extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/starting-seeds-indoors: seed-starting chart gives tomato '5-6 weeks' and pepper and eggplant '9 weeks' before the outdoor planting date (warm crops set out after the last frost). Read 2026-07-19 (LLM-summarised); read by the maintainer 2026-07-25, which is the read that promoted this rule. Note what the corpus's per-crop values do with the sources: tomato 6 sits at the top of Minnesota's '5-6 weeks' and inside Illinois's '6-8'; pepper and eggplant 8 sit BELOW Minnesota's '9 weeks' and at the top of Illinois's '6-8'. They are a reconciliation of two published ranges, not a figure either source prints.
University of Illinois Extension, 'When should I start my seeds?' (2023-02-10), extension.illinois.edu/blogs/good-growing/2023-02-10-when-should-i-start-my-seeds: peppers, tomatoes, and eggplant started '6-8 weeks before the last frost'. Read 2026-07-19.
See this rule in the planner
Another 49 rules in the corpus apply by situation rather than by species — rotation intervals, frost windows, sun, spacing and soil. Read the full evidence page.
Guilds that place it
All plants