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TomatoBasilPepperOregano

Pizza garden

Tomato, basil, pepper, oregano, thyme and rosemary, the plants that go on a pizza, grown in one bed.

Why these are grouped

Chosen for the kitchen. Chosen for the kitchen, with one thing it gets wrong. Oregano, thyme and rosemary want dry, lean, sharply drained ground, and the tomato and basil beside them want the opposite. Keep the herbs at the driest edge, or give them the dry herb bed of their own next to this one.

Plan this plant team ›

Space it needs

At least 2.5 m²27 ft². If your bed is smaller, the planner grays this plant team out, says why, and offers the nearest adaptation that fits. It never swaps in something else without telling you.

If your bed is smaller: Pizza garden (patio) (1 m²11 ft²).

Between seasons

Living perennials stay in the bed between seasons, so only part of the ground gets rotated.

What is in it

What it costs the ground

Rotation history belongs to the ground itself, so this is what the planner records about this patch after the plant team comes out.

A belief this raises

Basil improves the flavor of adjacent tomatoes.

Contested

The one trial we know of found no difference in flavor, and nobody has proposed how it would work. Plant basil next to tomatoes anyway. You'll want them at the same time in the kitchen.

What is known

No proposed mechanism. One garden trial is known: a 2004 West Virginia University study whose blind taste tests over three years found no consistent preference for tomatoes grown with companions. Extremely widely believed.

The source

researchrepository.wvu.edu

Yield, pest density, and tomato flavor effects of companion planting in garden-scale studies incorporating tomato, basil, and Brussels sprout Bomford, M. K. (2004)
Double blind taste tests over three years showed no consistent preference for tomatoes grown with companions over those grown in monoculture.

Rules that decide where it fits

Any vegetables planted together help each other

Refuted

The planner won’t plan around this claim. What is known instead is below.

What is known: Some plant teams rest on a real way one plant acts on another. A kitchen bundle says only that you'll want these things in the same bowl. Both are good ways to plant. Only the first has plants working on each other.

Evidence: settled without a trial (definition).

Read the full rule › · open in the planner ›

Perennial members must not be sited in ground that is annually turned or rotated.

Well established

If you skip this, the planting fails. The planner won’t allow it.

How it works: Tillage destroys the crown. Rotation moves the annuals; the perennial cannot move.

Evidence: checked against 1 source in the research-based literature.

The source

ndsu.edu

Rhubarb and Asparagus NDSU Extension, H61
Rhubarb is often planted to one side of the garden, where it will not be disturbed if the main garden is plowed or rototilled in the fall.
Remedy

Split perennial members into a permanent border; rotate the annuals around it.

Read the full rule › · open in the planner ›

Hardiness zone is the correct variable for perennials, and only for perennials.

Well established

If you skip this, it still grows, just less well. The planner suggests it.

How it works: Zones encode average annual minimum winter temperature, which governs whether a woody perennial survives to spring. It is the wrong quantity for an annual, which never sees winter. A zone that is too warm is a second, different mechanism. Mild winters do not kill a perennial; they fail to chill it. Deciduous fruit crops need a winter dormancy period to break bud and set fruit, so in a zone milder than a plant is adapted to it may survive and never crop. Only the cold end is enforced, because only winter survival follows from what a zone measures; the warm end gets advice and is never refused. That warm limit is a property of the cultivar, and that limits what this rule can do. Chill requirement is published per variety and varies enormously within a species, so a species-level ceiling says "the modeled range does not reach your zone", never "no plant of this kind will crop for you". So above its range the planner still offers the plant, with advice to choose a cultivar rated for your zone.

Evidence: checked against 1 source in the research-based literature.

The source

extension.oregonstate.edu

Growing blackberries in your home garden OSU Extension EC 1303
Winter cold-hardy cultivars adapted to the colder regions of Oregon (such as zones 5 to 7), may not grow normally in regions of the Willamette Valley (zone 8) where winters are warmer and plants receive less winter chill.

Plus 2 working notes on how the sources were read.

Read the full rule › · open in the planner ›

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