Ejote

Cornell Vegetables, 'Do Rotations Matter within Disease Management Programs?', vegetables.cornell.edu/pest-management/disease-factsheets/do-rotations-matter-within-disease-management-programs (fetched in-container 2026-09-02; read by the maintainer 2026-09-02): its rotation table gives beans root rots 3 years, white mold (Sclerotinia) 3 years, anthracnose 2 years; peas root rots 3-4 years, Fusarium wilt 4-5 years.

UMN Extension, Fruit and Vegetable News, 'Crop planning deep dive: Mind your Peas and Beans' (2021), blog-fruit-vegetable-ipm.extension.umn.edu/2021/04/2021-consideration-minding-your-peas.html (fetched in-container 2026-09-02; read by the maintainer 2026-09-02): 'Rotate away from legumes for more than 3 years'; 'More than 6 years is needed for some diseases (Fusarium, some damping off pathogens).'

UConn IPM, 'Molds and Mildews of Beans in Connecticut', ipm.cahnr.uconn.edu/molds-and-mildews-of-beans-in-connecticut (fetched in-container 2026-09-02; read by the maintainer 2026-09-02): white mold - 'Rotate away from susceptible crops for 7 years', it affects beans and 'practically all vegetable crops'; downy mildew - 'Rotate with other crops for 2 years.'

NDSU Agriculture, 'Field Pea and Lentil Root Rot Risk, Diagnosis and Resources', ndsu.edu/agriculture/ag-hub/field-pea-and-lentil-root-rot-risk-diagnosis-and-resources (fetched in-container 2026-09-02; read by the maintainer 2026-09-02): 'Fields with a long history of pulses in close rotations (every 2-3 years) are at greatest risk'; 'Chickpea, soybean, and faba bean are not susceptible to Aphanomyces euteiches and thus can be included in a rotation with pea and lentil to break up the disease cycle.'

University of Illinois Extension, 'Time Your Vegetable Plantings by Cold Hardiness' (2018-03-26), extension.illinois.edu/blogs/ilriverhort/2018-03-26-time-your-vegetable-plantings-cold-hardiness: very hardy vegetables 'withstand freezing temperatures and hard frosts without injury' (planted earliest in spring); frost-tolerant vegetables 'can withstand light frosts, but not freezing temperatures' (planted a couple of weeks later). LLM-summarised from a read of the page; it establishes the CATEGORIES but states no week offsets.

Colorado State Univ. Extension, GardenNotes #720, 'Vegetable Planting Guide', extension.colostate.edu/resource/vegetable-planting-guide (read 2026-07-25): hardy vegetables go in 'As early as 2-4 weeks before the date of the average last spring frost'; semi-hardy 'As early as 0-2 weeks before the date of the average last spring frost'; tender from seed 'around the date of the average last spring frost'; very tender 'Typically 2+ weeks after'. This is the source that states the offsets in weeks.

Where this rule sits in that range: hardy at 3 weeks is mid-range of CSU's 2-4. Half-hardy at 2 weeks is the EARLIEST EDGE of CSU's 0-2 - the most aggressive planting CSU sanctions, not the middle of it. The rule is inside published guidance at both ends, but it leans early on the half-hardy side and a gardener following it in a cold spring is taking that boundary.

Do not import an offset from another publication's hardiness scheme without checking the category names: CSU has no 'very hardy' tier, so a '4-6 weeks before frost' figure written against a four-tier scheme does not describe CSU's 'hardy'. Categories are not comparable across sources.

University of Minnesota Extension, 'Starting seeds indoors', extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/starting-seeds-indoors: seed-starting chart gives tomato '5-6 weeks' and pepper and eggplant '9 weeks' before the outdoor planting date (warm crops set out after the last frost). Read 2026-07-19 (LLM-summarised); read by the maintainer 2026-07-25, which is the read that promoted this rule. Note what the corpus's per-crop values do with the sources: tomato 6 sits at the top of Minnesota's '5-6 weeks' and inside Illinois's '6-8'; pepper and eggplant 8 sit BELOW Minnesota's '9 weeks' and at the top of Illinois's '6-8'. They are a reconciliation of two published ranges, not a figure either source prints.

University of Illinois Extension, 'When should I start my seeds?' (2023-02-10), extension.illinois.edu/blogs/good-growing/2023-02-10-when-should-i-start-my-seeds: peppers, tomatoes, and eggplant started '6-8 weeks before the last frost'. Read 2026-07-19.

Penn State Extension, 'Inoculation of Forage and Grain Legumes', extension.psu.edu/inoculation-of-forage-and-grain-legumes (read 2026-08-14): 'Rhizobia bacteria are fairly specific as to which legumes they will infect, form nodules on the roots of, and for which they will fix nitrogen'; 'Legumes effectively nodulated by the same Rhizobia species are termed cross-inoculation groups'; 'Inoculation is recommended when the legume being planted has not been grown in that field in the past three years or with every planting of a high-value crop'; 'Inside the nodule, an enzyme called nitrogenase drives the N fixation reaction.'

USU Extension, 'How to Grow Beans in Your Garden', extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/beans-in-the-garden (read 2026-08-14): 'Beans are warm weather vegetables that require soil and air temperatures above 60°F for best germination and plant growth'; 'If you plant when soils are below 60°F, germination is greatly reduced'; 'Seedlings will emerge in 7-10 days when planted in soil that has warmed to 65-85°F.'

UMN Extension, 'Growing beans in home gardens', extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-beans (read 2026-08-14): 'Bean seed planted in cold soil may rot rather than germinate, and plant growth will be very slow in cooler weather'; 'Plant beans once the soil has warmed.'