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UMass Extension, 'Alliums, Fusarium Basal Rot', umass.edu/agriculture-food-environment/vegetable/fact-sheets/alliums-fusarium-basal-rot (fetched in-container 2026-09-02; read by the maintainer 2026-09-02): 'Rotate away from alliums for at least 4 years'; 'Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. cepae is a soil-borne pathogen that overwinters as chlamydospores (thick-walled survival spores) buried in the soil'; affects garlic, leeks and onion.

Colorado State University Extension, 'Soil-Borne Diseases of Onion', extension.colostate.edu/resource/soil-borne-diseases-of-onion (fetched in-container 2026-09-02; read by the maintainer 2026-09-02): 'Do not plant onions more than once every five years in a field'; its Table 1 lists a rotation of less than 4 years as favouring damping-off, smut, pink root, Fusarium basal rot and stem and bulb nematode; 'Soil-borne fungal pathogens and nematodes can persist for many years in previously infected onions.'

Univ. of Maryland Extension, 'White Rot of Onion and Garlic', extension.umd.edu/resource/white-rot-onion-and-garlic (fetched in-container 2026-09-02; read by the maintainer 2026-09-02): 'Rotation alone will not control white rot because sclerotia can survive in the soil for 20-40 years'; 'white rot only infects Allium species.'

UMass Extension, 'Alliums, White Rot', umass.edu/agriculture-food-environment/vegetable/fact-sheets/alliums-white-rot (fetched in-container 2026-09-02; read by the maintainer 2026-09-02): 'White rot survives in soil in the form of sclerotia, which are dense masses of fungal tissue. They may remain viable in soil for 15 years or more without allium hosts.'

UMN Extension, 'Growing onions in home gardens', extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-onions (read 2026-08-21): 'Curing is essential if you plan to store your onions'; 'Keep the onions in a warm (75F - 90F), well-ventilated area for two to four weeks, until outer bulb scales are dry and the neck is tight'; 'Poor curing will result in decay during storage.'

Clemson HGIC, 'Onion, Leek, Shallot, & Garlic', hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/onion-leek-shallot-garlic (read 2026-08-21): onion - 'Thoroughly air-dry bulbs in a shaded area before storage', 'To avoid storage diseases, be sure onions are well-cured before storing'; garlic - 'Cure in a warm, shady place with good air movement', 'Allow bulbs to dry until the neck is dry and the outer skin is papery, approximately two to three weeks', 'Bulb rot can also occur in storage from bruising and insufficient drying.'

UGA Extension, 'Garlic Production for the Gardener' (C854), fieldreport.caes.uga.edu/publications/C854 (read 2026-08-22): 'Late September through November is the time to plant garlic in Georgia'; 'Garlic cloves require a period of 6-8 weeks of cool weather after planting (below 40 F) to undergo vernalization ... by low winter temperatures'; 'Although vernalized, no inflorescence or lateral buds (that later form the bulb) are developed until early spring with the onset of lengthening days and suitable temperatures'; 'Hard-necked garlics may grow in Georgia but generally prefer the cold winters and long, cool springs of more northern climates. Soft-necked garlics are well-adapted to the more temperate climate of the South.'

Iowa State Univ. Extension, 'Growing Garlic in the Home Garden', yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/growing-garlic-home-garden (read 2026-08-22): 'Plant cloves ... in the fall (October to early November)'; 'The highest yields are obtained from the largest cloves planted in the fall'; 'Plant large cloves 1 to 1.5 inches deep with the pointed side up, 3 to 5 inches apart within rows spaced 18 to 24 inches apart'; 'Fall-planted garlic should be mulched in November with a 4- to 6-inch layer of weed-seed-free straw to help prevent winter injury.'