French Marigold
Tagetes patula · daisy family
French Marigold (Tagetes patula) is an annual in the daisy family.
What the corpus records
- Mature height
- 25–45 cm
- Mature spread
- 30 cm
- Spacing in row
- 20 cm
- Days to maturity
- 50–70
- Light
- full sun
- Frost tolerance
- tender
- Feeder class
- light
- Root depth
- shallow
- Habit
- bush
- Lifespan
- annual
- Ground coverage
- moderate
- Value to pollinators
- low
- Scheduled by
- days to maturity
Rules that apply to French Marigold
Tender species must not be scheduled before the site's last frost date.
Well established · fatal if ignored → block
Mechanism: Ice nucleation in leaf tissue.
Evidence: settled without a trial - climatology.
remedy
Sow or set out after the last frost date, or start indoors and transplant once it has passed.
See this rule in the planner
Marigolds interplanted among vegetables control root-knot nematodes.
Refuted · none if ignored → refute
Evidence: confirmed against 1 source in the research-based literature.
the source
UF/IFAS EDIS ENY-056/NG045, 'Marigolds (Tagetes spp.) for Nematode Management', edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/NG045 (read 2026-07-11): intercropping — 'Can marigolds have an effect on plant-parasitic nematodes when grown in an intercropping setting? Probably not.'; 'marigold should be planted at least two months before the desired vegetable crop' at 'the same site in which the vegetable crop will be planted'; 'Planting should be dense to ensure the best nematode control'; 'Marigold produces a substance called alpha-terthienyl, which can aid in the reduction of root-knot nematodes'; 'Marigolds cannot eradicate nematodes ... it must be grown every season before the actual crop is planted.'
Marigolds do suppress root-knot nematodes, but only as a solid stand grown for a full season as a cover crop. Dotting them between your tomatoes will not do it.
See this rule in the planner
Cold-hardy annuals can be sown or transplanted before the last spring frost — hardy crops about three weeks before, half-hardy about two weeks before. Tender crops wait for the frost itself.
Promising · suboptimal if ignored → advise
Mechanism: Cold hardiness. Hardy crops tolerate hard frost and half-hardy crops tolerate light frost, so they can occupy the ground weeks before frost-tender crops are allowed in. The offset is measured from the last spring frost.
Evidence: confirmed against 4 sources in the research-based literature.
the 4 sources
University of Illinois Extension, 'Time Your Vegetable Plantings by Cold Hardiness' (2018-03-26), extension.illinois.edu/blogs/ilriverhort/2018-03-26-time-your-vegetable-plantings-cold-hardiness: very hardy vegetables 'withstand freezing temperatures and hard frosts without injury' (planted earliest in spring); frost-tolerant vegetables 'can withstand light frosts, but not freezing temperatures' (planted a couple of weeks later). LLM-summarised from a read of the page; it establishes the CATEGORIES but states no week offsets.
Colorado State Univ. Extension, GardenNotes #720, 'Vegetable Planting Guide', extension.colostate.edu/resource/vegetable-planting-guide (read 2026-07-25): hardy vegetables go in 'As early as 2-4 weeks before the date of the average last spring frost'; semi-hardy 'As early as 0-2 weeks before the date of the average last spring frost'; tender from seed 'around the date of the average last spring frost'; very tender 'Typically 2+ weeks after'. This is the source that states the offsets in weeks.
Where this rule sits in that range: hardy at 3 weeks is mid-range of CSU's 2-4. Half-hardy at 2 weeks is the EARLIEST EDGE of CSU's 0-2 - the most aggressive planting CSU sanctions, not the middle of it. The rule is inside published guidance at both ends, but it leans early on the half-hardy side and a gardener following it in a cold spring is taking that boundary.
Do not import an offset from another publication's hardiness scheme without checking the category names: CSU has no 'very hardy' tier, so a '4-6 weeks before frost' figure written against a four-tier scheme does not describe CSU's 'hardy'. Categories are not comparable across sources.
See this rule in the planner
Long-season warm crops are started indoors several weeks before the last frost and set out after it — tomato and tomatillo about six weeks ahead, pepper and eggplant about eight. Basil, six.
Promising · suboptimal if ignored → advise
Mechanism: A frost-tender crop with a long days-to-maturity cannot mature if it is only direct-sown after the last frost — the frost-free window is too short. A head start under cover buys the weeks the season lacks; the seedling is set out only once frost has passed — the transplant date is still frost-gated.
Evidence: confirmed against 2 sources in the research-based literature.
the 2 sources
University of Minnesota Extension, 'Starting seeds indoors', extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/starting-seeds-indoors: seed-starting chart gives tomato '5-6 weeks' and pepper and eggplant '9 weeks' before the outdoor planting date (warm crops set out after the last frost). Read 2026-07-19 (LLM-summarised); read by the maintainer 2026-07-25, which is the read that promoted this rule. Note what the corpus's per-crop values do with the sources: tomato 6 sits at the top of Minnesota's '5-6 weeks' and inside Illinois's '6-8'; pepper and eggplant 8 sit BELOW Minnesota's '9 weeks' and at the top of Illinois's '6-8'. They are a reconciliation of two published ranges, not a figure either source prints.
University of Illinois Extension, 'When should I start my seeds?' (2023-02-10), extension.illinois.edu/blogs/good-growing/2023-02-10-when-should-i-start-my-seeds: peppers, tomatoes, and eggplant started '6-8 weeks before the last frost'. Read 2026-07-19.
See this rule in the planner
Another 50 rules in the corpus apply by situation rather than by species — rotation intervals, frost windows, sun, spacing and soil. Read the full evidence page.
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