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Basil · Ocimum basilicum · familia de las lamiáceas · USDA PLANTS: OCBA
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Las reglas y las notas de cosecha de esta página están traducidas automáticamente del inglés; sus fuentes, algunas notas y los títulos de las guías siguen en inglés.
Albahaca (Ocimum basilicum) es una planta anual (familia de las lamiáceas).
Lo que la semilla necesita antes de brotar.
Iowa State Extension, 'Germination Requirements of Annuals and Vegetables' (Jauron & Steil, last reviewed Dec 2023), yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/germination-requirements-annuals-and-vegetables (fetched in-container 2026-09-20, read by the maintainer 2026-09-20 via the batch-3 germination review): the Basil row gives Germination Temperature 65-70 F, which is 18-21 C (stored). FLAGGED ESTIMATED, and this is why: Iowa State labels this column 'Germination Temperature (°F)' and defines it as 'The ideal air temperature for germination' - it is an AIR temperature, not a soil temperature, and this field is germination_soil_temp_c. No source read gives basil a soil-germination temperature; this is the nearest published germination figure, stored with that caveat rather than dropped. Basil is normally started indoors on a warm flat where air and medium temperature converge, which is the context this figure fits. No extension source read gives a pre-sow soak or scarification for basil, so no seed_treatment is recorded. [read]
Iowa State Extension, same page and fetch as germination_soil_temp_c (read by the maintainer 2026-09-20): the Basil row gives Days to Germination 10-14. Stored [10, 14]. [read]
Iowa State Extension, same page and fetch (read by the maintainer 2026-09-20): the Basil row carries the light code D, defined verbatim as 'D = Require Darkness for Germination. Cover the seed with the germination medium.' So this species germinates in darkness (light_to_germinate false). [read]
University of Maryland Extension, 'Growing Vegetables in Containers and Salad Tables', extension.umd.edu/resource/growing-vegetables-containers-and-salad-tables (fetched in-container 2026-09-25, read by the maintainer 2026-09-25): 'Small-statured herbs (basil, cilantro, thyme, mint, oregano, tarragon, and marjoram) will grow well in 2- to 5-gallon pots.' Stored is the minimum the sentence gives. [read]
These are estimates from general gardening knowledge, or the sources disagree on them, so treat them as a starting point rather than a firm figure.
Mecanismo: Nucleación de hielo en el tejido de la hoja.
Evidence: settled without a trial - climatology.
Siembra o trasplanta después de la fecha de la última helada, o empieza en interiores y trasplanta cuando haya pasado.
Mecanismo: Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. basilici es un hongo del suelo específico de la albahaca (no el Fusarium del tomate ni el de la sandía); una vez que una plantación está infestada, sus esporas de resistencia persisten en el suelo de ocho a doce años. Por lo general llega en semilla contaminada en vez de estar al acecho en todas partes, así que es un peligro solo donde se ha sembrado semilla infectada - pero donde sí está, las plantas de la familia de la menta lo portan sin mostrar síntomas y pueden mantener la tierra infecciosa de un año al siguiente.
Evidence: confirmed against 1 source in the research-based literature.
NC State Extension, Growing Small Farms, 'Fusarium Wilt of Basil', growingsmallfarms.ces.ncsu.edu/growingsmallfarms-fusariumbasil (fetched in-container 2026-09-03; read by the maintainer 2026-09-03): 'Once a field has become infested with the fusarium wilt pathogen, infective propagules may persist in the soil for 8-12 years. During that time, growers should avoid growing sweet basil or members of the mint family'; 'The disease is introduced into fields, hydroponic systems, and greenhouse culture primarily through contaminated seed'; 'If it is not possible to obtain tested seed, the seed should be soaked in cold water for four hours followed by a heat treatment of 20 minutes in 133-136 F water'; 'Mints will not exhibit symptoms of the disease but may carry over the inoculum from year to year'; 'Some seed companies also sell resistant varieties.' [read]
Empieza con semilla analizada y libre del hongo fusarium, o trata tu propia semilla con agua caliente (veinte minutos a 133-136 F); donde haya aparecido la enfermedad, cultiva una variedad resistente donde se ofrezca y mantén la albahaca - y cualquier menta establecida - fuera de esa tierra durante varios años. La espera por sí sola es una protección solo parcial, ya que las esporas duran buena parte de una década y las mentas pueden portarlas.
Mecanismo: Resistencia al frío. Los cultivos resistentes toleran heladas fuertes y los semirresistentes toleran heladas ligeras, así que pueden ocupar la tierra semanas antes de que se permita la entrada a los cultivos sensibles a las heladas. El desfase se mide desde la última helada de primavera.
Evidence: confirmed against 4 sources in the research-based literature.
University of Illinois Extension, 'Time Your Vegetable Plantings by Cold Hardiness' (2018-03-26), extension.illinois.edu/blogs/ilriverhort/2018-03-26-time-your-vegetable-plantings-cold-hardiness: very hardy vegetables 'withstand freezing temperatures and hard frosts without injury' (planted earliest in spring); frost-tolerant vegetables 'can withstand light frosts, but not freezing temperatures' (planted a couple of weeks later). LLM-summarised from a read of the page; it establishes the CATEGORIES but states no week offsets.
Colorado State Univ. Extension, GardenNotes #720, 'Vegetable Planting Guide', extension.colostate.edu/resource/vegetable-planting-guide (read 2026-07-25): hardy vegetables go in 'As early as 2-4 weeks before the date of the average last spring frost'; semi-hardy 'As early as 0-2 weeks before the date of the average last spring frost'; tender from seed 'around the date of the average last spring frost'; very tender 'Typically 2+ weeks after'. This is the source that states the offsets in weeks.
Where this rule sits in that range: hardy at 3 weeks is mid-range of CSU's 2-4. Half-hardy at 2 weeks is the EARLIEST EDGE of CSU's 0-2 - the most aggressive planting CSU sanctions, not the middle of it. The rule is inside published guidance at both ends, but it leans early on the half-hardy side and a gardener following it in a cold spring is taking that boundary.
Do not import an offset from another publication's hardiness scheme without checking the category names: CSU has no 'very hardy' tier, so a '4-6 weeks before frost' figure written against a four-tier scheme does not describe CSU's 'hardy'. Categories are not comparable across sources.
Mecanismo: Un cultivo sensible a las heladas con muchos días a la cosecha no puede madurar si solo se siembra directamente después de la última helada — la ventana sin heladas es demasiado corta. Una ventaja inicial bajo cubierta compra las semanas que le faltan a la temporada; la plántula solo se trasplanta una vez que ha pasado la helada — la fecha de trasplante sigue dependiendo de la helada.
Evidence: confirmed against 2 sources in the research-based literature.
University of Minnesota Extension, 'Starting seeds indoors', extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/starting-seeds-indoors: seed-starting chart gives tomato '5-6 weeks' and pepper and eggplant '9 weeks' before the outdoor planting date (warm crops set out after the last frost). Read 2026-07-19 (LLM-summarised); read by the maintainer 2026-07-25, which is the read that promoted this rule. Note what the corpus's per-crop values do with the sources: tomato 6 sits at the top of Minnesota's '5-6 weeks' and inside Illinois's '6-8'; pepper and eggplant 8 sit BELOW Minnesota's '9 weeks' and at the top of Illinois's '6-8'. They are a reconciliation of two published ranges, not a figure either source prints.
University of Illinois Extension, 'When should I start my seeds?' (2023-02-10), extension.illinois.edu/blogs/good-growing/2023-02-10-when-should-i-start-my-seeds: peppers, tomatoes, and eggplant started '6-8 weeks before the last frost'. Read 2026-07-19.
Mecanismo: La dominancia apical y el cambio de hoja a semilla. Pellizcar el brote terminal libera las yemas laterales que quedan debajo del corte, así que la planta se ramifica y se vuelve más frondosa, con más tallos con hojas; y como la floración desvía a la planta de formar hojas a producir semilla, quitar los botones antes de que abran la mantiene en hoja y con el follaje tierno.
Evidence: confirmed against 2 sources in the research-based literature.
Univ. of Illinois Extension, 'Basil' (Herbs), extension.illinois.edu/herbs/basil (read 2026-08-22): 'Pinching the tips of stems encourages a bushy plant and more leaf growth resulting in a round plant full of aromatic basil'; 'Basil flower buds should be removed by pinching as soon as you see them form. Leaving them on the plant will affect the flavor of the leaves.'
Penn State Extension, 'Basil, A Summer Favorite', extension.psu.edu/basil-a-summer-favorite (read 2026-08-22): 'Continue to pick the leaves regularly to encourage growth throughout the summer'; 'This keeps the plant growing strong and bushy, providing for a continual harvest through the warm days of fall'; 'After six weeks, watch out for early flowering. If flower buds do emerge, just cut or pinch them off'; 'The flavor will be adversely affected if the plant is allowed to flower.'
Cuando la planta tenga varios pares de hojas verdaderas, pellizca o cosecha desde arriba, justo por encima de un par de hojas, con una frecuencia regular, en lugar de arrancar las hojas de abajo. Vigila las espigas florales y pellízcalas o córtalas en cuanto salgan.
Otras 118 reglas dependen de tu huerto y no de la planta — rotación de cultivos, fechas de helada, sol, distancia entre plantas y suelo. Velas todas.
Milpa Gardens. "Albahaca (Ocimum basilicum)." https://milpa.garden/es/plants/ocimum-basilicum/
A garden-planning corpus: every claim states its evidence grade and links its sources on the page. Cite it with the grade, and add the date you read it.