Cynara cardunculus · daisy family
Artichoke (Cynara cardunculus) is a perennial in the daisy family.
Also called Globe Artichoke.
Every number above carries a confidence tier. These are the ones the corpus does not stand behind — estimated from general knowledge, or contested between sources. They are shown because hiding them would be the dishonest half of showing the rest.
Mechanism: Ice nucleation in leaf tissue.
Evidence: settled without a trial - climatology.
Sow or set out after the last frost date, or start indoors and transplant once it has passed.
Mechanism: Zones encode average annual minimum winter temperature, which governs whether a woody perennial survives to spring. It is the wrong quantity for an annual, which never sees winter. THE CEILING IS A SECOND AND DIFFERENT MECHANISM, and until 2026-07-26 this rule enforced it without naming it. A zone too WARM does not kill a perennial; it fails to chill it. Deciduous fruit crops need a winter dormancy period to break bud and set fruit, so in a zone milder than a plant is adapted to it may survive and never crop. Until ISSUES #13 was decided the band was enforced at both ends; now (option E) only the cold end gates — it alone follows from the definition of the zone system — and the warm end is carried as an ADVISORY, not a refusal. AND THE WARM END IS A CULTIVAR'S ANSWER, NOT A SPECIES', which is the honest limit of what this rule can do. Chill requirement is published per variety and varies enormously within a species, so a species-level ceiling says "the modelled range does not reach your zone", never "no plant of this kind will crop for you". So the engine offers the plant above its band and advises choosing a cultivar rated for the zone rather than refusing it — the same move invariant 3 makes for soil, applied to chill.
Evidence: confirmed against 3 sources in the research-based literature.
THE FLOOR IS TRUE BY DEFINITION and needs no citation: the USDA system defines a zone AS a band of average annual minimum winter temperature, so 'a plant colder-hardy than your zone survives your winter' is the definition restated. This rule was `verified_trivially` on that basis alone until 2026-07-26. THE CEILING WAS NEVER COVERED BY IT - a minimum-temperature definition says nothing about a plant failing for want of chill - and that gap is why ISSUES #13 exists. The pointer below closes it.
OSU Extension EC 1303, 'Growing blackberries in your home garden' (Bernadine Strik), catalog.extension.oregonstate.edu/sites/catalog/files/project/pdf/ec1303.pdf (read 2026-07-26). THE CEILING'S MECHANISM, STATED: 'Winter cold-hardy cultivars adapted to the colder regions of Oregon (such as zones 5 to 7), may not grow normally in regions of the Willamette Valley (zone 8) where winters are warmer and plants receive less winter chill.' A plant failing in a WARMER zone for want of chill - which is what this rule's upper bound enforces and what no source said until now. THE SAME PAGE MAKES IT A CULTIVAR PROPERTY: 'Even cultivars within the same type (trailing, erect or semierect) differ in fruit quality and flavor, appearance, tolerance to pests, cold hardiness, and plant longevity', and the remedy it gives is the one this rule's rejection text now repeats: 'Minimize risk by choosing types and cultivars that are adapted to your hardiness zone.' The page then publishes a table of sixteen cultivars EACH WITH ITS OWN ZONE RANGE, which is the strongest available evidence that a species-level band is an approximation. [read]
WHAT THIS DOES NOT SETTLE. The mechanism is now named, but the corpus still carries ONE band per species where the source carries one per cultivar, and 12 of 25 perennial zones have no citation at all. So the ceiling is explained without being precise. ISSUES #13 stays open on that, and the rejection text is deliberately phrased as 'the modelled range does not reach your zone' rather than as a prediction that nothing will crop.
Mechanism: A frost-tender crop with a long days-to-maturity cannot mature if it is only direct-sown after the last frost — the frost-free window is too short. A head start under cover buys the weeks the season lacks; the seedling is set out only once frost has passed — the transplant date is still frost-gated.
Evidence: confirmed against 2 sources in the research-based literature.
University of Minnesota Extension, 'Starting seeds indoors', extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/starting-seeds-indoors: seed-starting chart gives tomato '5-6 weeks' and pepper and eggplant '9 weeks' before the outdoor planting date (warm crops set out after the last frost). Read 2026-07-19 (LLM-summarised); read by the maintainer 2026-07-25, which is the read that promoted this rule. Note what the corpus's per-crop values do with the sources: tomato 6 sits at the top of Minnesota's '5-6 weeks' and inside Illinois's '6-8'; pepper and eggplant 8 sit BELOW Minnesota's '9 weeks' and at the top of Illinois's '6-8'. They are a reconciliation of two published ranges, not a figure either source prints.
University of Illinois Extension, 'When should I start my seeds?' (2023-02-10), extension.illinois.edu/blogs/good-growing/2023-02-10-when-should-i-start-my-seeds: peppers, tomatoes, and eggplant started '6-8 weeks before the last frost'. Read 2026-07-19.
Another 88 rules in the corpus apply by situation rather than by species — rotation intervals, frost windows, sun, spacing and soil. Read the full evidence page.
Milpa Gardens. "Artichoke (Cynara cardunculus)." https://milpa.garden/plants/cynara-cardunculus/
A garden-planning corpus: every claim states its evidence grade and links its sources on the page. Cite it with the grade, and add the date you read it.